Day 22 – Removed additional unneeded wiring, put together power recliner, and cleaned up a bit.

February 18th, 2018

I decided to attack the wiring again.  I was able to remove about another 5 lbs. of the unneeded stuff.  I’m almost to the point where it will be done.

unnamed (5)

I finally put together the power recliner.  It’s nice having a comfortable place to sit in between doing all of the things that need to be done.  Plus I’m loving the built in USB port on the cup holders :-).

 

I also cleaned things up a bit.  It’s easy to get it looking like a junkyard in there, and then trying to find the right tool becomes almost impossible.  I also got around to taking down the fans by the front windshield.  I’m going to clean them up and then repaint them.  Till next time………

 

Day 21 – Diamond plate in drivers area installed and first base cabinet installed.

January 24th, 2018

Finally got the aluminum diamond plate installed under the drivers seat area.  I chose to go with 1/8″ thickness as there is a subfloor underneath.  It also comes in a steel version but the aluminum version is lighter in weight and way less cost.  Here are the before and after shots.

 

I also got the first base cabinet installed right behind the drivers seat.  This base cabinet is 30″ wide.  I’ll also be putting a 24″ base cabinet right next to it and that will completely cover the wheel well box.

IMG_0877

Day 20 – Electrical Conduit, Cabinets, and Drivers Floor area being prepped.

Nov. 18th, 2017 – I finished installing the flexible electrical conduit down both sides of the bus.  It will house the 14/2 wiring for the 15 amp circuits, and the 12/2 wiring for the (2) 20 amp circuits.

 

I also purchased the first cabinet to go over the drivers side wheel well right behind the drivers seat.  I placed the Pergo flooring temporarily underneath it to see how the color matched.  I’m happy with it.

IMG_0105

The last thing I did that day was to prep the drivers floor area to get it ready for the new 1/8 inch diamond plate that I will be putting down.

Day 19 – LED String Lighting Installed

Sept. 22, 2017 – Today I added some 110vac LED string lighting to the inside of the bus.  Even though I have several fluorescent light fixtures on the ceiling of the garage very little light actually comes inside the bus.  This makes it very difficult to work when making precise measurements.

Each light string is 48 ft. long and has 15 light sockets.  The LED bulbs are 2 watts each, therefore the entire string is only 30 watts.  I placed a string on each side of the bus for nice even lighting.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072MQW7PV/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After the bus conversion is complete I won’t be using them inside any longer as I will be installing all 12vdc LED lighting.  The good thing about the string lights is that they are indoor/outdoor so I’ll be able to place them on the outside of the bus and have some great night time lighting for wherever we are boondocking at.

Here is a before shot:

AD41687E-372B-4DD6-9DCC-F666DF437C39

And the after shot:

023796BF-208B-49D4-BBE5-B7B85A99ED60

Day 18 – Framing for the side walls

Sept. 6th, 2017 – Well, we survived the great Houston, Texas floods that hurricane Harvey brought with it.  Our area did not flood at all and we only lost power for a day and a half.  All in all we fared pretty well compared to others.  My heart goes out to those affected by the storm.

Today I got all the framing done that will be needed to put up the side walls.  On the bottom near the floor I used 2×2 lumber as it is actually 1 1/2 inchs in width as is the chair rail above it.  Notice that I screwed into the side of the 2×2 and into the bus wall, and that I did not also screw down into the plywood. This allows the plywood to shrink and expand underneath the 2×2 with any climate changes.

IMG_0734

Then on top of the chair rail I screwed down 2×4’s that I placed on edge, as once again it is the exact same thickness as the chair rail.

image3

I attached the 2×4’s with Tek screws that are made for attaching wood to metal.

image1

First I drilled a pilot hole through the wood and also through the metal ribbing where I was attaching it to, using a drill bit made for #12 screws.

image6

Then I screwed in the Tek screw to just below the surface of the wood with a #3 phillips head bit.

There will be a slight gap at the top of the 2×4 caused by the thickness of the chair rail metal.  To keep from having the 2×4 slant inwards I used a wood shim just the right thickness so that it would be attached perfectly perpendicular.

image4

Once I attach a 2×4 at the bottom of each window sill it will give me a perpendicular surface all the way down to the floor to attach the side walls.  Also, as a side benefit, the 2×2’s at the bottom and 2×4’s above it give you places to anchor your floor cabinets.  Here is a completed shot without the 2×4 under the windows.

image2

Lots of people want to remove the side chair rail.  In my opinion it is a bad idea.  It is an integral part of the bus that helps with side impacts if you ever get into an accident.  Also, by using it to your advantage with the framing it creates a 1 1/2″ gap that you can use to run your electrical wiring behind the walls and out of sight.  Making for a much cleaner look.

Day 17 – Odd’s n’ End’s

June 24th, 2017 – My apologies for not posting lately.  Real life has gotten in the way and what little I managed to do on the bus did not warrant it’s own separate post.  But I have made a little progress so I’ll update you on what’s been done lately.

I finally managed to remove all the unneeded wiring that went to the rear flashers.  That included the wire loom (black tubing) that ran down the passenger side of the bus.  I now no longer have to try and hide that when completing the build.

I also started the framing to box in the wheel wells.  I’ll attach 1/2 inch plywood to the sides and then also to the top.  The construction of the box’s do not have to be perfect as 3 of them will be covered up by cabinets anyway.  Except for the front passenger wheel well box which has to look perfect and nice as it will have a Captain’s chair mounted on the top for the miss’s to sit in when traveling.

image4

I also managed to remove all the lettering on the outside of the bus.  This included the AmTran logo as well as all the Emergency Exit lettering.  My bus will be completely de-badged as I think it makes for a much cleaner look.

Last, I finally received my new LED brake, turn indicatior, and backup lights.  Once I install them I’ll provide before and after pics in a separate post.

image1

Day 16 – Starting on the subfloor

May 1st, 2017 – I picked up all the supplies to start the subfloor today.  I’ll be using Dow Styrofoam XPS (Extruded Polystyrene) insulation.  It comes in 4×8 ft. sheets and I’m using 1/2 inch thickness.  The XPS is much denser and sturdier than the poly-iso type of foam board and holds up much better for using it on the floor.  On top of that I’ll be using 1/2 inch plywood to help disperse the weight of cabinets, appliances, and us walking on it.  Then on top of the plywood we’ll be putting Pergo laminate flooring.

The width inside the bus is exactly 7 ft. 6 in.  I’m cutting the insulation  at exactly 7 ft. 5 1/2 in.  This leaves me with 1/4 inch on each end for expansion and contraction.  I’m cutting the plywood at 7 ft. 4 1/2 in. so that it will clear the seat ledge.  This will give me a 3/4 in. gap on each end of the plywood which I will cover up with 2×2’s at the bottom.  I’ll speak more about this and include photos in my next post.  I’m not putting down any framing to hold the insulation and plywood in place.  Lots of people do that but it’s completely unnecessary.  If you cut the insulation and plywood so that it only has a slight gap on each end then it’s not going to move and shift around.  This way is called a “floating floor”.  And once I attach the floor cabinets to the plywood and also to the side wall studs then the floor really won’t be floating anymore anyway.  So once again the framing is not needed.

Some people lay the insulation horizontally and then the plywood vertically so that there are no matching seams between the pieces.  That is not a bad way to do it but I chose to lay all of mine horizontally but to have the plywood overlap the insulation seams.  This solved itself because of the 3 ft. storage/electrical room that I’m putting at the very back of the bus where only the insulation was laid down, and then the rubber mat.  The rubber flooring was a steal at Costco for only $9.99.