Where it all began
March 31st, 2018 – Got the second cabinet installed today. It’s an unfinished birch 24″ base cabinet that still needs to be stained to match the bigger 30″ cabinet. Together they are 54 inches which is just enough to cover the driver side wheel well box. The power recliner will go beside the 24″ cabinet next but I won’t place it over there until I can wire up the electrical outlet first that will be behind it.
Until next time……….
March 17th, 2018 – Got the first base cabinet installed today, 30 inches wide. Another one that is 24 inches wide will be going right beside it to completely cover the wheel well.
I also started to install the plywood side paneling. Before I can put anymore in I need to run electrical wire and put in the receptacle boxes.
February 18th, 2018
I decided to attack the wiring again. I was able to remove about another 5 lbs. of the unneeded stuff. I’m almost to the point where it will be done.
I finally put together the power recliner. It’s nice having a comfortable place to sit in between doing all of the things that need to be done. Plus I’m loving the built in USB port on the cup holders :-).
I also cleaned things up a bit. It’s easy to get it looking like a junkyard in there, and then trying to find the right tool becomes almost impossible. I also got around to taking down the fans by the front windshield. I’m going to clean them up and then repaint them. Till next time………
January 24th, 2018
Finally got the aluminum diamond plate installed under the drivers seat area. I chose to go with 1/8″ thickness as there is a subfloor underneath. It also comes in a steel version but the aluminum version is lighter in weight and way less cost. Here are the before and after shots.
I also got the first base cabinet installed right behind the drivers seat. This base cabinet is 30″ wide. I’ll also be putting a 24″ base cabinet right next to it and that will completely cover the wheel well box.
Nov. 18th, 2017 – I finished installing the flexible electrical conduit down both sides of the bus. It will house the 14/2 wiring for the 15 amp circuits, and the 12/2 wiring for the (2) 20 amp circuits.
I also purchased the first cabinet to go over the drivers side wheel well right behind the drivers seat. I placed the Pergo flooring temporarily underneath it to see how the color matched. I’m happy with it.
The last thing I did that day was to prep the drivers floor area to get it ready for the new 1/8 inch diamond plate that I will be putting down.
Sept. 22, 2017 – Today I added some 110vac LED string lighting to the inside of the bus. Even though I have several fluorescent light fixtures on the ceiling of the garage very little light actually comes inside the bus. This makes it very difficult to work when making precise measurements.
Each light string is 48 ft. long and has 15 light sockets. The LED bulbs are 2 watts each, therefore the entire string is only 30 watts. I placed a string on each side of the bus for nice even lighting.
After the bus conversion is complete I won’t be using them inside any longer as I will be installing all 12vdc LED lighting. The good thing about the string lights is that they are indoor/outdoor so I’ll be able to place them on the outside of the bus and have some great night time lighting for wherever we are boondocking at.
Here is a before shot:
And the after shot:
Sept. 6th, 2017 – Well, we survived the great Houston, Texas floods that hurricane Harvey brought with it. Our area did not flood at all and we only lost power for a day and a half. All in all we fared pretty well compared to others. My heart goes out to those affected by the storm.
Today I got all the framing done that will be needed to put up the side walls. On the bottom near the floor I used 2×2 lumber as it is actually 1 1/2 inchs in width as is the chair rail above it. Notice that I screwed into the side of the 2×2 and into the bus wall, and that I did not also screw down into the plywood. This allows the plywood to shrink and expand underneath the 2×2 with any climate changes.
Then on top of the chair rail I screwed down 2×4’s that I placed on edge, as once again it is the exact same thickness as the chair rail.
I attached the 2×4’s with Tek screws that are made for attaching wood to metal.
First I drilled a pilot hole through the wood and also through the metal ribbing where I was attaching it to, using a drill bit made for #12 screws.
Then I screwed in the Tek screw to just below the surface of the wood with a #3 phillips head bit.
There will be a slight gap at the top of the 2×4 caused by the thickness of the chair rail metal. To keep from having the 2×4 slant inwards I used a wood shim just the right thickness so that it would be attached perfectly perpendicular.
Once I attach a 2×4 at the bottom of each window sill it will give me a perpendicular surface all the way down to the floor to attach the side walls. Also, as a side benefit, the 2×2’s at the bottom and 2×4’s above it give you places to anchor your floor cabinets. Here is a completed shot without the 2×4 under the windows.